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Isna |
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Isna
is located about 33 miles south of Luxor. The town's Greek name was
Latopolis and here fish (lates) where thought to embody the goddess
Neith,who was sacred to the area. Isna was increasingly important
during the 18th dynasty due to Egypt's developing relationship with
the Sudan. There was a route established between Isna and Derr. Later,
the city slowly declined until it received renewed interest during
the 26th Dynasty. Later, under the Greeks and Romans, it became the
capital of the Third Nome of Upper Egypt.We also know of an Isna about
a hundred years ago from Flaubert, who later wrote Madame Bovary,
was propositioned by a 'almeh' while aboard his boat. He went with
her to the house of Kuchuk Hanem, where she danced (not so virtuously)
the Bee. In other words, wild times could be found here. Mohammed
Ali had band almeh (meaning learned women) from Cairo, so they had
gathered to make their living in Qena, Isna and Aswan.
But today, Isna is a somewhat sleepy if busy merchant and farming
town, with a weaving industry, on the west bank of the Nile where
the entertainment more resides in the Saturday animal market. On the
covered market street, one may purchase fabric, or have the fabrics
made into clothing. There are some fine old houses about with fine
brickwork and mashrbiyya screens. There is also a barrage just outside
of town which was built in 1906. About 4 miles southwest of town is
the Deir Manaos Wa al-Shuhada (Monastery of the Three Thousand Six
Hundred Martyrs), who's 10th century church is said to be one of the
most beautiful in Upper Egypt. Perhaps this monastery is a lasting
commemorative to Emperor Decius (249-51 AD) who degreed that all Christians
would suffer death if they did not sacrifice to the pagan gods. His
cartouche was the last to be carved on the walls of the Temple of
Khnum in Isna.But the main attraction is the Temple of Khnum, which
lies beneath the level of the houses in a pit. Most of the ruins of
around the Temple and the old city are yet to be explored as they
lay under these modern dwellings. This was not the first temple here,
for during the reign of Thutmose III, a temple was built here that
preceded it. There are blocks from an early Christian church in the
forecourt of the temple, foretelling of a time when Isna was an important
Christian center. Near the Temple of Khnum on the stone quay along
the corniche are carved cartouches of Emperor Marcus Aurelius |
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